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Up the great staircase trooped the 2,500 guests, resplendent in tiaras and jewels or white tie and tails, to be greeted by their hostess, the Marchioness of Londonderry, glamorous in a clinging black satin Paris dress.
Either side of her impressive cleavage gleamed great swathes of
diamonds. Round her neck hung a heavy row of pearls that fell below her waist.
On her head was the largest of the Londonderry tiaras, so
big it was known in the family as ‘the fender’.

Pale rays illuminate the top-lit gallery of Londonderry house

Beside her stood her handsome husband Charles, the seventh Marquess
of Londonderry, and the Prime Minister, Lloyd George.
That November night in 1919 was Edith Londonderry’s
first Eve of Parliament reception, a tradition that continued
for 20-odd years.

The Marchioness of Londonderry wears ‘the fender’ to greet guests,
1934

Londonderry House, like many of London’s great houses, was
built for entertaining. In the 18th and 19th centuries, most
aristocrats and others who lived on their estates for much of
the year had a town house to which they migrated for ‘the Season’ – those summer months filled with balls and parties, when débutantes were
presented at court and launched into ‘society’ in the hope of making a splendid marriage.

The ballroom, Devonshire House

These houses were as magnificent as their owners could
manage. Built and decorated by the most talented of the age, they were
sumptuously furnished – walls were hung with silk, damask and wonderful paintings – and often embellished with marble statuary.
The mustard-yellow drawing rooms of Londonderry House were filled with blue Sèvres
vases and gold plate; in the entrance hall stood a Canova statue of Theseus and the Minotaur (now in the Victoria and Albert Museum).
Suites of rooms, with a ballroom at one end, could
be flung open for entertaining.

Georgiana Cavendish (1757-1806), a lover of gambling
– and threesomes

Today most of these palatial mansions have been pulled down or turned into blocks of flats.
With their disappearance went their furnishings, objets and paintings.
But what their wonderful rooms looked like can be seen in London: Lost
Interiors, a book compiled from superb black-and-white photographs of these amazing houses, some of which belonged to aristocratic landowners, others to plutocrats or society figures.

The drawing room, Grosvenor House

Most of the townhouses – those used for the Season rather
than permanent residences – were clustered round Park Lane, Mayfair
or on Piccadilly, like Devonshire House. Here once lived the fifth Duke of Devonshire and his wife Georgiana (pronounced jaw-janer),
whom he had married in 1774 when she was just 17. She was
a celebrated beauty who quickly became a leader of fashion, famous for her towering hairstyles three feet high, decorated with birds, fruit, even ships
in sail. The couple spent 20 years in a ménage à trois with
Lady Elizabeth Foster, Georgiana’s close friend,
who was also the Duke’s mistress. Meanwhile, Georgiana’s gambling led to mounting debts: on her
death in 1806 they were found to be the equivalent of £4 million in today’s money.

The rich, restless second Duke of Westminster, AKA Bendor, in his
20s

Another Park Lane mansion was Grosvenor House, belonging to the dukes of Westminster and one of the largest
in London, as befitted the family’s status and wealth (their huge fortune came from their ownership of
Mayfair). Bendor, the blond and handsome second duke (1879-1953) was known as one of the
richest men in England, lavishing jewels on his mistresses, chief among whom was Coco Chanel.

The picture gallery, Grosvenor House

A restless soul, Bendor would arrive without warning at
any of his houses (or yachts). All were kept ready:
cars fuelled, silver polished, servants in livery.
But after the First World War, during which Grosvenor
House had been requisitioned as a hospital, land prices had risen so high that even for Bendor it had become uneconomic and he sold it.
It was demolished in 1927 and the Grosvenor House Hotel was built on the site.

Designer Oliver Messel, Devonshire House, 1934

At the other end of the scale was 8 Pelham Place, the South Kensington home
of Cecil Beaton from 1940 to 1975. Superbly
furnished by this brilliant photographer, it was described loftily by the diarist Chips Channon (for whom the word ‘snob’ could have
been invented – in his diaries he declares,
‘I am only really happy with royalty’) as ‘a tiny but super-attractive snuffbox of
a house’. Beaton, himself no social slouch, ran him close: at his parties the women often wore stiletto heels, which
pitted the floor, and later he would point them out, saying,
‘That’s Princess Marina, that’s Julie Andrews,
that’s Vivien Leigh…’

French furnishings at 8 Pelham Place, the South Kensington home of Cecil Beaton

Beaton’s near neighbour in Pelham Place, until the
mid-60s, was the great stage designer Oliver Messel.
When Messel’s nephew Tony Armstrong-Jones (later Lord Snowdon) became engaged to Princess Margaret, Messel laid on a lunch, asking the Princess if
there was anyone she would particularly like to meet.
She said she had always greatly admired the witty cabaret
star Bea Lillie and so Messel invited her.

What none of them knew was that Bea Lillie had a drinking habit.
At the end of lunch she slid quietly under the table
and was carried upstairs to sleep it off. Tony and the Princess took
their leave and Messel rushed back to his studio, where he was busy with fittings for Elizabeth Taylor, only
to be interrupted by a telephone call.

Cecil Beaton at home in Pelham Place, 1947

‘It’s Kensington Police Station here, Mr Messel,’ said the voice at the other end.
‘We thought you ought to know that there’s a naked woman on your balcony, throwing bottles at everyone who passes
by.’

Among the last of these fascinating residences to survive was the aforementioned Londonderry House.
Throughout the 20s and 30s it had seen receptions and balls, hosted by the Londonderrys for their four daughters and
two granddaughters. When eventually it had to go,
in July 1962, a farewell party for 300 was given by Alastair, the 9th Marquess.

Live sounds were supplied by a blues band featuring a swaggering young Mick Jagger, no less – presaging the rise of a whole new swinging London generation.

London: Lost Interiors by Steven Brindle is published by Atlantic, £50.
To order a copy for £42.50 with free UK delivery until
22 December, go to mailshop.co.uk/books or call 020 3176 2937. 

historic england, getty images

Fireworks erupt above people celebrating the ouster of
Syrian president Bashar al-Assad at Umayyad Square in central Damascus

Jordan will host US, EU, Turkish and Arab diplomats on Saturday for high-level talks on Syria, a day after celebrations in Damascus and nationwide rejoicing at the ouster of president
Bashar al-Assad.

Syrians celebrated the day they called the “Friday of victory” with fireworks
heralding the fall of the Assad dynasty.

More than half a century of brutal rule by his clan came to a sudden end on Sunday, after a lightning
rebel offensive swept across the country and took the capital.

Assad’s fall has also led to fast-moving diplomatic developments,
with US Secretary of State Antony Blinken among envoys set to discuss Syria on Saturday in the Jordanian city
of Aqaba.

People in Syria’s Aleppo celebrate the fall of Assad during rallies
called the ‘Friday of victory’

Turkey, meanwhile, will reopen its embassy in Damascus, closed since 2012 amid calls by Ankara for Assad to step down.

A Qatari diplomat said a delegation from the Gulf emirate would visit
Syria on Sunday to meet transitional government officials and discuss aid and the reopening of their embassy.

Unlike other Arab states, Qatar never restored diplomatic ties with Assad after a rupture in 2011.

Assad has fled Syria, closing an era in which suspected dissidents were jailed or killed, and capping nearly 14 years of war that killed more than 500,000 people and displaced millions.

– ‘Tears of joy’ –

Abu Mohammed al-Jolani, head of the Islamist group Hayat Tahrir al-Sham (HTS) which spearheaded the offensive,
had called on Syrians “to go to the streets to express their joy”.

A girl jumps off a toppled statue of Syrian ex-president Hafez al-Assad during celebrations in the city of Sweida

Celebrations continued into the night on the first Friday —
the Muslim day of rest and prayer — since Assad
took flight.

Umayyad Square in Damascus was jammed with vehicles, people and waving flags as
fireworks shot into the air, AFPTV live images showed.

Thousands flocked to the capital’s landmark Umayyad Mosque,
some raising the three-star Syrian independence flag that none dared wave in the capital during Assad’s
repressive rule.

Crowds also gathered in the squares and streets of other Syrian cities,
including Homs, Hama and Idlib.

There was a festive and relaxed atmosphere as hundreds
rallied in the main square of Syria’s second city Aleppo, a scene of fierce fighting during the country’s civil war, AFP correspondents said.

Huge lines to attend the first Friday prayers at the landmark Umayyad
Mosque in Damascus since Assad’s ouster

A huge billboard depicting Assad and his father Hafez was set on fire.

Ahmad Abd al-Majed, 39, an engineer who returned to Aleppo from Turkey,
said that many shed “tears of joy and happiness”.

“Syrians deserve to be happy,” he said.

In the southern city of Sweida, the heartland of Syria’s Druze minority, Bayan al-Hinnawi, 77, never believed
he would live to see such a day.

“It’s a wonderful sight. Nobody could have imagined this could happen”, said Hinnawi, who spent 17 years in prison.

– Tens of thousands missing –

Sunni Muslim HTS is rooted in Syria’s branch of Al-Qaeda and designated a terrorist organisation by many Western governments.

The group has sought to moderate its rhetoric,
and the interim government insists the rights of all Syrians
will be protected — as will the rule of law.

The European Union was seeking “to establish contacts” with the
new rulers soon, an EU official told AFP on condition of anonymity.

The UN refugee agency said the new government had sent “constructive” initial signals, including asking the organisation to
stay in the country.

A rose placed in the barrel of a gun of a Syrian rebel fighter in Damascus

Leaders of the Group of Seven (G7) democratic countries, who met virtually on Friday, expressed hope for “a peaceful and orderly transition through the definition of an inclusive political process” in Syria.

Inside much of Syria, the focus is turning towards unravelling
the secrets of Assad’s rule, particularly the network of detention centres and suspected torture
sites.

Syrians have descended upon prisons, hospitals and morgues
in search of long-disappeared loved ones.

“I turned the world upside down looking,” Abu Mohammed told AFP as he searched for news of three missing relatives at the Mazzeh
airbase in Damascus.

“We just want a hint of where they were.”

The International Committee of the Red Cross said it documented more than 35,000 disappearances
during Assad’s rule, with the actual number likely far higher.

While Syrians celebrate the end of Assad’s brutal rule, they face a struggle for necessities
in a country ravaged by war, sanctions and runaway inflation.

On Friday, the EU announced the launch of an “air bridge” operation to deliver
an initial 50 tonnes of health supplies via neighbouring Turkey.

– Israel ready to stay in buffer zone –

Israeli incursion into Golan buffer zone

Assad was propped up by Russia — where a senior Russian official told US media he has
fled — as well as Iran and Lebanon’s Hezbollah militant group.

Turkish Foreign Minister Hakan Fidan told private NTV television that his country had urged Russia
and Iran not to intervene militarily “to ensure minimum loss of life”.

The rebels launched their offensive on November 27, the same day a ceasefire took effect in the
Israel-Hezbollah war, which saw Israel inflict staggering losses
on Assad’s Lebanese ally.

Both Israel and Turkey, which backs some of the rebels who ousted
Assad, have since carried out strikes inside Syria.

Israel’s latest strikes hit military sites in the
Eastern Qalamun region, the Syrian Observatory for Human Rights war monitor said Saturday.

Israel has also sent troops into a UN-patrolled buffer zone that separated Israeli
and Syrian forces on the Golan Heights, in a move the UN said
violated a 1974 armistice.

The army has been ordered to “prepare to remain” there throughout the winter,
Defence Minister Israel Katz’s office said Friday.

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